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Variations in wave direction estimated using first and second order Fourier coefficients

DRS at CSIR-National Institute of Oceanography

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Title Variations in wave direction estimated using first and second order Fourier coefficients
 
Creator SanilKumar, V.
Anand, N.M.
 
Subject wave direction
directional spectra
swell
wave data
fourier analysis
design wave
berthing
approximation
time series
wave height
seasonal variations
 
Description In most design applications such as alignment of the berthing structure and breakwater alignment, it becomes necessary to determine the direction of design wave. There are two different approaches to determine wave direction. One involves the use of first order Fourier coefficients (mean wave direction) while the other uses second order Fourier coefficients (principal wave direction). Both the average wave direction over the entire frequency range (0.03 -0.58 Hz) and the direction corresponding to the peak frequency are used in practice. In the present study, comparison is made on wave directions estimated based on first and second order Fourier coefficients using data collected at four locations in the west and east coasts of India. Study shows that at all locations, the mean and principal wave directions for frequencies ranging from 0.07 to 0.25 Hz (plus or minus 0.5 times peak frequency) co-vary with a correlation coefficient of 0.99 but at lower and higher frequencies, difference between the parameters is large. Average difference between the mean wave direction at peak frequency and the average over the frequency related to spectral energy more than 20% of maximum value is less, around 13 degrees. Study shows that average difference in the sea and swell directions is around 39 degrees
 
Date 2008-07-02T04:53:48Z
2008-07-02T04:53:48Z
2004
 
Type Journal Article
 
Identifier Ocean Engineering, Vol.31; 2105-2119p.
http://drs.nio.org/drs/handle/2264/1134
 
Language en
 
Rights Copyright [2004]. It is tried to respect the rights of the copyright holders to the best of the knowledge. If it is brought to our notice that the rights are violated then the item would be withdrawn.
 
Publisher Elsevier